leather repair directions, SEM sure-coat and SEM color coat directions and classic coat

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Sem Sure-Coat --- note that this is a waterborne product --- dries a couple shades darker and looks a little different if spraying or brushing + number of coats.

If you are spraying, especially with an airbrush, it is recommended to add some sure-coat reducer to thin the colorant for maximum atomization.

Directions for Sem Sure-Coat recoloring of leather: clean with Sem plastic/leather prep --- spray over leather liberally and scrub with gray pad and wipe dry with lint free cloth. add Sem crosslinker (increases adhesion and aids resistance to general household cleaners) to recolorant according to directions on bottle. spray or brush in light coats. If brushing, use foam brush and do not be in a hurry to achieve coverage. Let dry in between coats. If spraying, spray in light mist coats, again not being in a hurry for coverage. Have adequate ventilation (fan is good) to dry completely between coats. If you do not have spray equipment, check out the economical power pak sprayer (good for sure-coat). (refer to recommended reducer mentioned above)

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!

All of this is not difficult work and you can definitely achieve a professional result.

home page, leather repair > leather repair directions and recoloring directions.

An actual excerpt from our detailed training manual.

TEXT DIRECTIONS FOR LEATHER REPAIR

Supplies needed: SEM plastic/leather prep, grey cleaning pad, Pro #1, Pro #2, Pro #3, Pro #3 thin optional, graining material, pointed and trowel knives, strip palette, backing fabric, heat gun and “fixer”™ tool, cold block & hard yellow plastic, #400 & #600 sandpaper, airbrush or foam brush, SEM colorants.

Light scratches --- all surface light imperfections Pro #1

sand lightly, aiming to get area as smooth as possible.
clean with SEM plastic/leather prep -- do not wet leather with any waterborne cleaner.
squeeze a couple drops of Pro #1 on area and spread out real thin. Should air dry in very short time -- can wave very light heat over area.
sand and clean again -- if not smooth enough, step 3 can be repeated only two to three times.
when smooth enough, overspray with airbrush or paint with foam brush. Note that low luster clear can be added to the colorant to keep the shine down or topcoat with low luster clear to take all the shine away.

Deeper scratches or small gouge Pro #2

use this more on non-abrasive areas. Sand lightly.
clean with SEM plastic/leather prep.
apply Pro #2 to area making as smooth as possible and level as possible – let air dry – can take a little heat, but better to wait.
sand to make very smooth – hopefully you did a nice job in step #3 to avoid sanding.
airbrush or foam brush color over area.

Deeper cuts, tears, holes etc. in leather Pro #3

clean with SEM plastic/leather prep.
make graining mold from a well defined grain area.
insert backing fabric shiny side up, if needed.
heat around outside edge in sections and press with finger tip or cold block to have cut adhere to backing fabric.
apply very thin layer of Pro #3 (aka leather lok) to repair area, making sure that all edges are wet with Pro #3. Note that pro #3 thin can be used for the last layer to make it easier to feather out the edges of your repair.
cure out completely with heat gun or “fixer”™ tool. (shiny, dull, shiny)
repeat steps #4 and #5 till area is perfectly smooth, remembering that you can grain the last layer by applying your graining mold to area; pressing in the grain with the yellow hard plastic piece or the cold block. Do not worry if grain does not take too well on certain leathers -- if you have a strong repair and your color is good, repair will be very acceptable.
sand if necessary – hopefully you do not have to do this if you were careful in your prior steps.
airbrush color in light mist coats to blend surrounding area or use the foam brush.

Classic Coat by SEM for leather or vinyl only!!!!

Use the same cleaners and preps mentioned on left, depending if you are spraying leather or vinyl. Since these are aerosols, there is, of course, no crosslinker additive or reducer.

Not for hard plastics_______________